Appalachian Trail Hike: Maryland & Pennsylvania - Mile 1027 - 1297
Appalachian Trail Hike: Maryland & Pennsylvania - Mile 1027 - 1297
Hello! Maryland and Pennsylvania flew by even though Pennsylvania in particular presented some challenges. Maryland was quick, taking less than 2 days to hike while Pennsylvania took a bit longer - but had much less elevation gain than prior states. Because of the ‘flatter’ section, I was able to get through some bigger mile days which helped towards my 100-day goal!
Appalachian Trail Hike: Maryland & Pennsylvania Summary
Statistics:
Days: 11
Full hiking days: 9
Zeroes: 0
Neros: 2
Total Trail Miles Hiked: 271.2
Total Elevation Gain: 33,484 ft
Total Elevation Loss: 33,145 ft
Highlights:
Meeting strong women in the outdoor space; Christine Reed and Heather Anderson
Getting through Rocksylvania without a fully broken ankle.
Spending time with some wonderful other hikers.
The 501 shelter experience!
Lowlights:
The rocks. My poor ankles and patience.
Weather being inconsistent; days of rain, dry sections, cold and hot?
Poor hostel and shelter etiquette.
Appalachian Trail Hike: Maryland & Pennsylvania Detailed Version
Day 52: Mile 1026 - 1043.9
Trail Daily Miles: 17.9
Elevation Gain: 2792 ft
Elevation Loss: 2234 ft
Weather: Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: No, I don’t want to leave my zero!
I very begrudgingly wrapped up my zero day and attempted to leave Harper‘s Ferry. After not taking any zeros and then taking one I remember how hard it is to get going after a day off. The first few miles of the day were flat along the rivers. Harper‘s Ferry is at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers and the trail follows a bike path for about 4 miles.
Then after the calm 4 miles, it got pretty steep and begins getting rocky. While I was on the rocky ascent, there was another thru hiker that was walking in erratic fashion along the trail. He was leaning against things and wobbling - George and I became pretty concerned. As we approached him, we started to smell alcohol and it was still much before noon. We briefly talked to the guy who immediately stood up straight and spoke clearly to us. We confirmed that he was okay and continued on. This is one of the hard parts about the AT is that because towns are so readily available sometimes people take the trail as a time to party.
The day continued on and became progressively more rocky, but we knew this was going to happen because we were getting towards Pennsylvania, which is known for rocks. I ran into another hiker that was actually from Grand Rapids, Michigan so that was fun to connect. Midafternoon I arrived at a pavilion in a large park where George was waiting for me with some trail magic from a day hiker. A Diet Coke and an apple are always a treat! We originally were going to go nine more miles after this afternoon, but we decided on five.
Another 5 miles went somewhat slowly, I arrived to state run campground that had bathrooms with running water showers and electricity. Even though I had just left town, this is still a nice amenity – clean hands are always welcomed.
Day 53: Mile 1043.9 - 1075.9
Trail Daily Miles: 32
Elevation Gain: 4811 ft
Elevation Loss: 4447 ft
Weather: Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: A new state - again!
The state park I stayed in was beautiful, but it was mostly grass. Therefore I woke up with a lot of condensation in my tent. Condensation is nothing new on the Appalachian Trail, but this was particularly bad as the grass was completely dewey on my morning trek to the bathroom led to a lot of wet socks, which was a bit of a way to start a day.
This part of the trail brings you to Mount Washington State Park, which houses the original Washington monument before it was moved to Washington DC. I love museums and this area had a lot of great informational placards leading up to the monument and it felt like a walking outdoor museum.
Maryland is just over 40 miles on the Appalachian Trail, which meant I was already coming to the end of the state by midday. There is a point of interest that is a high point within Maryland and it’s called the Maryland rocks or High Rock Overlook, which are graffiti or painted rocks. There were a decent amount of tourists up here, but also a lot of trash on the ground. Popping in and out of the woods, I have come to really appreciate clean space and this was sad to see that people treated the area as such.
The border of Maryland and Pennsylvania is housed in a wonderful park parentheses pen damar Park parentheses. There were trash cans, bathrooms, and a large playground. To celebrate the end of another state, I hopped on the swings and enjoyed some childlike playtime. I didn’t go too much further after this park and tucked in for the night having reached another new state!
Day 54: Mile 1075.9 - 1109.9
Trail Daily Miles: 34
Elevation Gain: 2375 ft
Elevation Loss: 2637 ft
Weather: Sun, Chilly
Overall Day Sentiment: Ill but happy to meet strong women in the outdoor space
I left the shelter really early in the morning because I had a lot of miles to do that day. Though, I woke up feeling a little ill, slightly nauseous and was concerned for the remainder of the day. This day slogged on but I had a goal of getting to Pine Grove Furnace Store, which is an Appalachian Trail staple. This is just after the halfway mark and hikers celebrate with a ‘half gallon challenge’. This means eating a half gallon of ice cream in a timed setting. Most hikers regret this decision as they feel sincerely ill afterwards, but I was undecided.
Upon arriving to the Pine Grove Furnace Store, I was still feeling a bit nauseous so I decided against the challenge. George also tapped out and we got a reasonable size ice cream serving instead. It ended up being a chilly day, even in the sun, so the setting of eating ice cream was a funny juxtaposition. There were other hikers there that opted into the challenge and they were wearing their puffy coats while eating and looked miserable.
While eating ice cream, we were told that the ATC museum that is located there is hosting an event with Christine Reed and Heather Anderson. Both of these women are accomplished authors and overall badass women in the outdoor space. The event was only a few hours away so I wanted to stay!
A look around the ATC museum and a wonderful event featuring these two women was what my internal motivation needed. In particular, Heather Anderson has several books out that I have read. I made the decision last year to hike the Appalachian Trail while reading “Mud, Rocks, Blazes” by her so it was a full circle moment to meet her.
After the event, George and I headed out for more miles and I began feeling ill again. It was a slow arrival time but eventually I got there. I believe it ended up being extreme dehydration as the cause. Because it had been a cooler day the day prior and the current day, I had less desire to drink a ton. Hydration when doing any activity but especially this amount of miles is important!
Day 55: Mile 1109.9 - 1138.9
Trail Daily Miles: 29
Elevation Gain: 3569 ft
Elevation Loss: 3027 ft
Weather: Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: What fun a real trail family could be
We moved quickly in the morning from the campsite because there was a town, Boiling Springs, that was attainable for breakfast. If you have gathered only a few things from reading this blog, I love breakfast food, and I am very motivated by it.
It was a relatively quick hike, despite some of the mileage into town. I got my wish a big breakfast from a lovely café. Other hikers also began showing up during this time who were camped near us, and it was great to see how welcoming a trail community was to large groups of hikers.
The section after Boiling Springs contained a lot of flat fields through farmland that was a real treat to walk through. Though I was uncomfortably full from my meal the miles went quickly. The only climb of the day was just before the shelter that I had planned to stay at. There was an old rusted truck in the middle of the forest on that final climb, which was a strange thing to stumble upon when no roads were near.
This shelter had four bunks and then a lot of floor space so I was thankful that George and I got 2 of the bunk spaces. A trail family of 5 came through who ended up being an utter delight; Critter, Moose, Diva, Freehand, Gatherer. We had dinner with them at the picnic table laughed through the evening and even watched their cartoons that they watched as a group at night just before bed.
Because of my 100 day goal, I had rarely met a large group of people or true tramily because I don’t spend that much time at shelters or in town. And it’s hard for the mileage that I needed to do for other people to continually run in to them. So to have a evening in which George and I integrated so well into this group was an absolute delight. They were also headed into town the next day same as us so we plan to see them then.
Day 56: Mile 1138.9 - 1150.4
Trail Daily Miles: 11.5
Elevation Gain: 1291 ft
Elevation Loss: 2185 ft
Weather: Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: Maybe hostels are not for me anymore?
It was a relatively short day into Duncannon Pennsylvania. It was Memorial Day so I was unsure of what services were going to be open. I ended up hiking a few miles with an absolute wonderful of a woman who was finishing up her triple crown. She shared stories from the Continental Divide Trail and from the TA in New Zealand. We commiserated about some of the Pacific Crest Trail sections as well. It’s amazing the different walks of life that are brought together by their love of the outdoors and the hiking community.
In Duncannon, there is a store and hostel called Kind of Outdoorsy. And it is in fact, just that. There are some outdoor supplies and resupply items along with a myriad of other quirky things, including quite a VHS collection and home knickknacks. There was a hostel attached to the back of the store where George and I stayed.
The main grocery store was a bit out of town and required a somewhat questionable uphill road walk on a busy street with nearly no shoulder. Though we tried hitching for a little bit, everyone had Memorial Day plans that did not include picking up to so sweaty, smelly hikers. A full resupply at the store and some stoop sitting while eating treats took up a bit of the afternoon.
The local brewery, Lindgren, was closed for Memorial Day but did trail magic for hikers. We went to the trail magic gathering along with the group from the night prior. Though the majority of food I was unable to eat because of being gluten-free I would still thankful for a local business supporting the hiking community.
The rest of the evening was quiet at the hostel where I showered and was able to do some laundry at the laundromat near my accommodation. Though I do like hostels along the trail as they are an affordable option that really houses most things you need – there were several snores that made the night sleep nearly impossible.
Day 57: Mile 1150.4 - 1174.7
Trail Daily Miles: 24.2
Elevation Gain: 3946 ft
Elevation Loss: 2869 ft
Weather: Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: Thankful for trail angels!
The lack of sleep from the night prior from the snoring was a disappointing way to start the day. The snorer in question also decided to get up even earlier and start banging around items that woke me up anyway. Despite them being a multi year section hiker that knows hiker etiquette… they persisted. There was a hole in the wall breakfast spot across the street from the hostel, so George and I went over there for a very early breakfast.
After a filling meal, we packed up at the hostel and headed out. The trail actually walks through the city of Duncannon, Pennsylvania, and over a bridge that crosses the Susquehanna river. At this point we caught up with Moose and Critter, and finished crossing the bridge and the train tracks together. There was a steep ascent right over the river crossing that we all tackled in different ways. I took the steepest, less rocky route, which ended up being the right move for me.
After the ascent, there was a small parking area from a forest road on that mountain. We saw some camping chairs sitting out with a truck with an open tailgate – clear signs of potential trail magic. And trail magic it was! Twizzler, an avid hiker from the area was giving out homemade sweet treats, twizzlers, and cold drinks. We had a lovely conversation and figured out that he had actually been following me on my newsletter and had up-to-date information about where I was and how far along the hike I had gotten. It was great to connect and I’m thankful for a Trail Angel that is so involved in the community up and down the Appalachian Trail.
The rest of the day somewhat slogged on and it was a mix of sincerely rock sections and some clear relatively flat trail. I ended up seeing a beautiful porcupine in the middle of the trail near my camp and spent some time with it. I had never seen one before, and if you know anything about me love seeing new mammals. It was a great way to end the day.
Day 58: Mile 1174.7 - 1196.8
Trail Daily Miles: 22.1
Elevation Gain: 2835 ft
Elevation Loss: 2826 ft
Weather: Rain, Mist
Overall Day Sentiment: I am a shelter rat?
It once again was drizzling rain as I was leaving camp, but luckily it started after I had packed everything up! This day was a bit of a blur for me as there was nothing too much of note.
There was a low lying area that had many signs around it stating that it was a beaver swamp and they had done some damage. By damage, they meant the beavers completely flooded an area that made the trail invisible! I decided to risk it and go through the swamp rather than take the much longer alternate. With a series of log crossings, it was actually a fun part to sort through. The only disappointment was my lack of beaver sighting.
The targeted spot for the night was a famous shelter - the 501 shelter - that is actually just a cabin with 12 bunk platforms and a giant picnic communal picnic table. As it continued to rain throughout the day, I was envisioning a warm, dry cabin as my reward. Even more of a reward is that you can get food delivered to it because the shelter is located off an accessible road.
By the time I arrived, I had gotten one of the last bunks - luckily George saved me one! I got settled and set up and quickly fell asleep and took a 30 minute nap. This is all while folks are chatting and playing games in the cabin, I must have been tired.
We decided as a group of 12 to order pizzas. I lamented being gluten free and planned to just eat my standard backpacking food for the evening when - LO - they had gluten free crust on the menu. Even though the pizzas took some time to arrive, it was heavenly when they did. We planned board games, ate pizza, and listened to the rain beating down on the shelter - all happy to be inside and dry.
Day 59: Mile 1196.8 - 1221.1
Trail Daily Miles: 24.3
Elevation Gain: 2264 ft
Elevation Loss: 3257 ft
Weather: Mist, Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: My ankles :(
It had in fact rained throughout the entire night, so the 501 shelter did exactly what I had hoped. Some folks got moving early (before 5:00am), but the majority of us had started stirring and packing in the 6:00am hour. There were a few folks that had planned on zeroing in the shelter! With the access of town food being delivered and the promise of more rain, it was a good move for those that could swing the time.
Alas, I could not swing the extra time and got going. It was a shortish day down to Port Clinton where I was staying the night in Hamburg - a town over as it had better accommodation/resupply options. Though the rocks continued, I made decent time into town. Well, I would have if I had taken the correct turns. At one point I ventured a half mile off of the trail and had to correct my error. The only reason I realized I was not on the AT was because… the trail was clear of rocks. So what I am saying is… sometimes the AT is harder for no actual reason.
I finally got into Hamburg, Pennsylvania and was able to get some chores done. A few hikers from the shelter the night before were staying int the same hotel and doing laundry just before me. One thing you can count on is the punctuality of hikers doing laundry: timers are SET.
George had never been to a Cabela’s before and I thought they may have some gear I needed. Little did I know that the Cabela’s in Hamburg, Pennsylvania was one of the largest ever? A lot of time was spent (wasted?) looking around at the huge wildlife scenes they had created.
A quick resupply at Walmart and a hotel grocery dinner for me wrapped up the night.
Day 60: Mile 1221.1 - 1242.8
Trail Daily Miles: 21.7
Elevation Gain: 3600 ft
Elevation Loss: 2560 ft
Weather: Sun, Rain
Overall Day Sentiment: Wish that folks had good shelter etiquette
Per usual moving in the morning was tough. There was breakfast at the hotel so I spent a lot of time there refueling. We got a ride back to the trail with full bellies and started making our way some rocky climbs.
The second half of Pennsylvania is known for more rock climbs in the first half which had been talked about a lot Appalachian Trail up until this point. Those rumors were in fact, true and it was a very slow going for the day. I crossed over some known sections (Pulpit and Balance Rocks) that really slowed me down. In these rocky sections, I found that listening to a podcast or an audiobook distracted me from the frustrating rock over rock over rock over rock parts I was getting.
I eventually got to the shelter that George and I had agreed upon and he had been there for a while. He is just much faster than I on these obstacles.
He and I were the only ones at the shelter for a while and so we got the only two elevated beds on either side of the shelter as there were some thunderstorms coming in. Just as it was getting dark, another hiker Snail showed up and he also set up his hammock on the front of the shelter so he was covered. We chatted a bit and then started to settle in for the night.
Two weekend section hikers rolled in after dark and left trail and shelter etiquette of their packing list. Snail asked them to be a bit quieter when they were cooking to which they responded “we worked all day unlike you all so we will be as loud as we want“. I have been woken up at this point because of how loud they were and it was a pretty frustrating situation. It started raining in earnest and so they tucked in on the floor of the shelter and started moving our stuff around without permission. To top it all off they didn’t get settled until about 11:00pm and snored the entire night.
Day 61: Mile 1242.8 - 1268
Trail Daily Miles: 25.2
Elevation Gain: 3389 ft
Elevation Loss: 3400 ft
Weather: Rain, Sun, Hot
Overall Day Sentiment: Why is there such a dry section on the AT?
After a rough night sleep from the weekend hikers that made their presence known - it was a busy day ahead. It was torrentially down pouring, so George and I took our time leaving the shelter. The motivation to leave the dry space to go out into discomfort is hard to drudge up. We decided to hike together for most of the day because there were some tough sections forthcoming.
It continued to rain for a few hours, but eventually cleared up and turned into a pleasant day. One major milestone of the day was going through Lehigh gap which is an infamous section just after the large Lehigh river. Heading northbound has a decent amount of rock climbing after the river. People say this is some of the first rock climbing that you do on the AT in preparation for the Northeast. Though there is an alternate route that’s a little bit flatter, it is a bit longer. So I decided to try out my scrambling skills and went up the harder route. It actually was more fun than I originally thought, though a little bit difficult with a large pack on my back. I was thankful for large rocks that were climbable rather than ankle twisters.
Once I was up on the ridge for the remainder of the day, it was dry. Water source prevalence is not something you typically have to think too much in advance about on the Appalachian Trail. But this was a dry section (a previous burn section!) that took some planning about where we were going to camp. There supposedly was a cache of water jugs that I completely missed.
Never fear - there was a large ski area lodge that allows hikers to come in and grab water. So I exited the trail went to a ski lodge on a Saturday night while everyone was out on the town and dressed up. You could say that I was completely out of place as a smelly and dirty hiker. I was able to use the restroom, wash my hands properly, and fill up all of my water. Filling up water without filtering is always a relief.
As I was exiting the lodge I bumped into Snail again and gave him directions for getting water at the lodge. Back on trail, I finally stumbled upon George who was tucked in his tent. There was great live music at the lodge and so I had hoped that we might have grabbed a drink there, but after some of the rocks, rock climbing, and other obstacles - I also wanted to tuck in for an early night.
Day 62: Mile 1268 - 1297.2
Trail Daily Miles: 29.2
Elevation Gain: 2612 ft
Elevation Loss: 3703 ft
Weather: Sun
Overall Day Sentiment: The rocks. The rocks. The rocks.
This was just a hard day. The rocks in Pennsylvania were brutal. And though this was my last day in the state, they did not relent. There was an 8 mile stretch that was all small-ish rocks that were more on the trail rather than off of it. It looked as though the trail creators pulled rocks from the side of the trail and put them on the trail as a cruel joke? I cried for most of this 8 miles and it felt like an ankle death march.
Eventually, I got to just before the Delaware Water Gap (the Delaware River) – which is the line between Pennsylvania and New Jersey. This is a cluster of towns which had proper east coast pricing so I ended up going back slightly to East Strousberg for the night. The town had a Walmart for resupply and hotel room dinner. Between the transit time, laundry, packing back up for the next stretch, there was no time for actual enjoyment of the spot.
